Introduction: How to Make a "Guyver" Costume

Guyer is a manga that is a write up about the high school student Shō, a guy World Health Organization comes to find a dependent techno-organic device that enhances the capabilities of its host. The Guyver is virtually strong, with its only weak stop being the Hold Metal. With this part intact, it can reconstruct the host from their data it stores inside, just if this part is critically injured, still, the host bequeath be eaten alive by the unit and perish. The Guyver suit also has high frequency swords that extend from its elbows, super strength and durability, a pinched frequency attack from its back talk, a pressure shank, and a Mega- Smasher chest of drawers cannon!!

My friend is a huge fan and wanted to go as Guyver for the 2022 Chicago Comic and Amusement Expo. I'm always down for a take exception. Have's go started!

Few things to note about the suit-

-You are non As rangy as you think you are.

-Also, you are wider than your normal body due to the size of the shoulders and the width of the forearm blades.

-Also, It can be very warm.

-Your visibility is disrupted by the lights and the lenses

- You need a handler to serve you get dressed and maneuver some crowded areas

- This is a Real extendible intricate build, simply well Worth information technology if you can give ear in there

Supplies

  • Black Lycra suit with face cover and gloves
  • old shoes (preferably black dress place vs gym shoes)
  • hot glue
  • contact cement
  • Eva Foam of varying thicknesses
  • craft foam
  • bonding Fe
  • elastic
  • velcro
  • heating system shoote
  • exacto knives
  • cutting mat
  • DAP caulking
  • belt sander
  • dremel with various dremel bits
  • roll of drawing off newspaper
  • zippers
  • press lights
  • cable/ cable hangers
  • hollow Ornaments
  • mis
  • tape measures
  • rules
  • clear plastic
  • pink/ purple highlighters
  • Light-emitting diode lights (optional)
  • air brush
  • acrylic
  • air dustcloth

Step 1: Reference Pictures

Before I ever pop out ANY dress up, I consult a ton of denotation photos from respective sources and put information technology in a folder. The more pictures from different angles, the better.

Look up: 1. Actual photos of the part from its source (movies, comics, action figure, etc)

2. Cosplay pictures. You can hear what has been finished, what you like, what you don't the likes of, how to improve on a design. You can too start getting an idea of different poses you think you'd equal to doh.

3. I start looking artistry study. I usually look up things via google images, deviant artistry, tumblr, etc. This way, you can see variant renditions of a fiber through a recently position and one time again, take up thinking about what you like, preceptor't like, etc.

4. Use your own imagination. Retrieve about what you want, how to come through your possess original design, what are some tricks you recall you'd equivalent to integrated.. perhaps you want to try out a new technique with this build, etc

Optional: 5. If you can draw, I sometimes will take all my consultation sources and start drawing out my own design. My friend and i discussed more of an organic type of looking suit so we wanted lots of textures in there.

Step 2: Duct Tape Mannequin (Optional)

Systematic to help with this build, I created a duct magnetic tape mannequin. These work great for situations such as:

1. The person is unable be continuously around to work on the costume. My admirer lived out of state and i needful to be able to continue functioning on the suit while he was unable to visit. It allowed me to factor in his proportions when creating parts.

2. It too served As a right smart for me to put the pieces together to see a comp image of what's occurrence.

3.This mannequin also served as a way to work along supererogatory pieces away a fractional mortal piece i was working connected my booster. This was helpful during the times were were adding texture or when painting.

4. Mannequins are useful when you nee to airbrush things so much as muscles on a unitard.

My detailed tutorial for the manikin build is placed here. Au fond what you are doing is wearing old dress and wrapping yourself in duct tape, keen it disconnected, putt it concluded a frame, stuffing it with news paper, and retaping it closed.

Stride 3: Lycra Accommodate

Get a fully snow-covered black lycra causa (pic 1)

1. I used the glass to outline a circulate for my Friend's font.

2. I used a unadorned piece of fabric and successful a little tab that i tailor stingy the mouth area. This is so that he can buoy hold the tab in his dentition and hold the chin area in place while he puts on his helmet. The tendency is that the chin part of the fabric drops down when you pushing a helmet in put on. This will go along in there.

3. I cut the gloves off most 2 inches about the wrist. If you conceive that the sleeves are now too inadequate and your skin can Be shown from below the armor, you can use some black stretch fabric and extended it again. You postulate those gloves though!

Optional

1. I deliver non gotten this to work, just in that location are areas of the suit that are exposed at the joints (elbows, waistline, knees, etc. I retrieve cloth puff out key might actually work to create some texture in these areas

Step 4: Neck Musical composition

1. Get a plastic bag and wrap it around your neck like a bib.

2. Take tape strips and tape the entire thing (pic 1, not same build but same construct)

3. Using a sharpie, Mark where the center of the cervix is. That will help you establish a middle manoeuvre.

4. Cut a slit flat in the nucha of the make out to take it murder and then retape it back together (pic 2)

5. From there, You can start drawing in your designs on single half of the neck defend. Aft entirely, the neck guard testament probably make up symmetrical anyways.

6. Cut the template into 3 parts (each side) and then transferred them to EVA foam (pic3)

7. Glue your 6 pieces together. (pic 4)

8. Add a zipper to the back of the neck guard to reattach it all jointly when wearing away it. (pic 5)

9. Set cervix piece aside for at present

Step 5: Enthrone Base

Front

1. Take your measurement from the top of your berm to a little above your waistline. The reason the measurement is NOT to your waistline is to compensate for how thick the belt is. So you need to take the mensuration for your width. One time you have your measurements, transfer those measurements to paper and close up in half. Draw your intent away happening the half canvas and so cut out. (pic 1)

2. erst you unfold the paper, you should get a radial paper guide . Transfer that to EVA foam and turn off out. This is your "base". (pic 2, Not of this build, but same concept)

3. Practice your heat gun to soften the foam then curl the shoulders and also the waist and then it wraps around the person's body.

Back

1.The back process is the equivalent as the front process. You amount from the articulatio humeri to the microscopic of the back and from rib to rib. It's actually better to turn over yourself a little slack on each end, atomic number 3 you can always cut IT down to fit the front assemble.

2. Formerly everything fits asymptomatic together, glue the shoulders togethers and sides.

3. typically, i would use buckles to snap the sides together, but i patterned it would be really difficult as guyer has these weird rib coiled things which would make buckles rugged. Soh We decided to give out with a 2 set up zip Down the in-between ofthe back. (It's e'er best to put buckles/ zippers, etc on the sides or the back, A most motion-picture show will be confiscated of your front) (pic 3). You should at once have your Vest Base

Abs

You straightaway have the base for your invest. We definite to beginning with the abs..

1. Using your paper template, cut out the abs section. We use a thinner EVA foam for the abs. We used a dremel to bevel the edges slay.

2. usage your guide to find where the abs should go and mark with a sharpie

3. use contact cement to gum the pieces in situ (pic 4)

Orbs

1. Guyver has this orb looking thing in his waistline orbit. We made to make a decision if that was going away to be part of the waistcoat, operating theatre pelvic girdle, but we chose to put over it on the vest due to the practicality of wearing the suit.

2. cut your ornament in half and take it to the belt sander to cause it symmetrical. the orb was painted at this point A IT would be tough to paint it later.

3. using that as a take, I create a paper template for side details of the orb. (pic 5)

4. The then transferred the templet to EVA sparkle. To create the angle, we soldered a horizontal dividing line across the backside to create a channel. I full the distribution channel with hot glue and held it in place while the glued cooled. (pic 6)

5. Glue in place (motion picture 7)

Step 6: Pelvis

Belt

1. Start by making a clean from EVA fizz. I trust ours was 2 inches wide. we misused two black plastic buckles to attach to some ends together. We hid the buckles in the back.

2. We cut a piece of non stretch cloth and glued information technology to the inside of the strip. EVA foam force out stretch, so the non-stretch fabric ensures that the belt wish always stay the same size

Groin

1. Now, measuring rod how durable and wide you desire the groin set up to be. Transfer connected to paper, and pull up out your intent. Cut out the paper design, unfold, and you should have a symmetrical template.

2. Use the paper templet and transfer to EVA foam. (pic 1)

3. I used my dremel to bevel the edge off.

4. Then we used an exacto knife and lightly cut until the piece to create the groove. apply heat from your heat triggerman to open ahead the cut.

5. Straightaway passion the entire groin piece and either use your fingers operating theater something like a golf game ball to curve/ shape it.

6. Glue to your knock comic strip (pic 2)

7. We took a thin art object of black chewy and glue information technology to the tip of the groin pick and the other end to the take down shopping center of the butt opus. This turns it into basically a thong, But IT prevents the groin tack together from lifting up when you are walking around.

As

1. Now, measure how long and wide you lack the butt composition to be. Transfer on to paper, and draw out your purpose. Cut unstylish the paper design, unfold, and you should have a symmetrical template. (pic 3)

2. Use the paper template and transfer to EVA sparkle.

3. I used my dremel to bevel the edge off.

4. And so we used soldering iron to make a vertical line on the inner side butt piece. Fill in the canal with hot glue and hold in position until cool. (pic 4)

5. Use your heat gun to mince the foam and then press it against a pipe bowl or a tumid ball to help configuration your the behind cheeks. Guyver has a booty!

6. Glue in commit and you should take the base of your pelvis complete. (picture show 5-7)

Step 7: Plump for Details

Shoulder Blades

1. Guyver has these cardinal giant shoulder blade areas. We decided to make them unconscious of 3 thick EVA foam pieces as they required to be slightly puffy.

2. bill out your proportions, draw your paper template and cut into sections (photograph 1)

3. transfer to EVA foam and sandpaper each small-arm into the quadrant.

4. Glue pieces together (pic 2).

5. Repeat unconscious process, but flip each face over so you can have the complementary piece of music.

6. Glue into place (pic 3)

7. You can also see that guyer has these side covers. As was common, measure out the pieces, channelis to paper, transfer to EVA foam, use a dremel to bevel the edges, and glue in place.. IF you can't get a good measurement, then consider some epithelial duct magnetic tape and put IT in that taxon orbit. Draw straight off on the duct tape and commit it murder to experience your template. Look to picture 4 for details.

8. There is also a minor rounded piece that goes near the small of the back. We used the tape method (explained above) to generate the forge. we contact cemented information technology in happening one side and so used velcro to keep it down on the adjacent side of meat.

Step 8: Chest Lights and Pharynx Triangle

Chest Lights

1. I created a paper template of where the lights should progress the chest. You rear also see where this upper trilateral objet d'art will start approach the collar. the triangle part can be set aside (pic 1).

2. Cut out circles from the chest area and mucilage the lights in (pic 2-4).

Pharynx Triangle

3. Use the triangle template from step 1 and employment IT to cut off 2 shapes stocky pieces of Eva fizz

4. Glue those shapes collectively and take that to your smoother to create a diamond. Glue in situ (pic 5)

Step 9: Internal and Outer Pectorals

Inner Musculus pectoralis

1. I knew that the pecs were passing to cover the lights, BUT i wanted the pecs to sit firmly around them. So i did NOT want to constitute the pecs hollow. Rather, i wanted to create a middle layer in between.

2. We used the template from step 1 from the early slip up and cut out the section i needed. Then we transferred to EVA effervesce. I drew a boarder around it because i wanted the pieces to be ear-shaped to ready snugly inside the pectoral covers. We used the boarder to indicate what we necessary to sand off with either my dremel or the belt electric sander (pic 1)

3. Localise those pieces aside

Outer Body part

1.Victimisation the guide from step 2, We redrew the satellite pec template. (motion-picture show 2)

2. We transfered to EVA foam and heated to get a parabolical shape.

3. We took the inner pectoral piece and glued it to the inside of this pectoral.

4. Past we took a strip of EVA effervesce and covered the sides of it, indeed we needed aweigh with a pecs. Look to the picture for closer details (Photo 3)

5. Using a soldering iron, we John Drew in grooves in the the pec. (pic 3)

6. Then, we used more or less elastic and glued it to the pec and likewise to the vest . (pic 4)

7. we used some postindustrial grade velcro and glued that to inside of the inner pectoral dower and also to the vest itself. (photo 5)

8. The velcro allows the pecs to stay closed. (pic 6--8)

Abuse 10: Feet

1. For the feet, grab your shoes and masking tapeline the entire thing.

2. Draw your design directly onto the masking tape. We numbered them also just so we could keep track of each piece (pic 1)

3. Carefully cut and flake each piece. Transfer each tape templet and stick directly onto paper (photo 3).

4. Cut out and now you take in your paper template (pic 3)

5. Conveyance to EVA foam. Dremel off the edges and fire u using heating gun. Use get hold of cement to glue directly onto your shoe. (pic 4).

Step 11: Shins

Now that you birth your feet cooked, you recognize how apiece shin should be. I in person believe the shins were the hardest break u of this build that somehow just got frankensteined jointly. This took some trial and mistake to get the shape i needed

1. I took the measurements and drew unfashionable the template on a folded sheet. (motion-picture show 1)

2. Cut the picture out. I knew there was going to be areas around the calves that needed to be indented, sol i cut incomparable tear-drib shaped side out (pic 2)

3. i also knew the backside of the shin (around the ankle) was reasonably bellying so i cut those into strips. (pic 3)

4. Transfer the paper templet to foam. I as wel used the teardrop paper template from step 2 to make a Slightly bigger tear drop. i likewise had to create miscellaneous pieces for the back of the shin and the wedges for the ankles. (pic 4)

5.We ook the intense shin and soldered a vertical line down in the mouth the back so that it would make over an indentation. (pic 6)

6. Then we glued in the back pieces (pic 7)

7. Past we glued the wedges into the bottom around the ankle to create a bulbous shape. Right call up, whatever you ut for one side, do to the other (as the whole affair is stellate). (pic 8 + 9)

8. We took the tear-dropped shaped foam and heated it. Then we stretched it over a bowl to create a incurvation. We glued it in happening either side of the calf. (pic 10)

9. We glued in a strip of EVA foam round the entire march of the shin. We used the dremel to rounded off the edge of the roomer (picture 10)

10. We also used a rounded dremel bit to produce the grooves along the sides of the sputter (moving-picture show 10)

Step 12: Rib Coils

We started then working on the Rib coils.

1. We took a disrobe of EVA foam and used the belt sander to carry off 2 of the 4 edges. this was going to be our "base"

2. And then we repeated the work on with different thicknesses of EVA foam to create strips.

3. We then wrapped the strips roughly the base of operations several multiplication to make a loop. (pic 1)

4. We had to create 6 coils every together to wrap up around the designated area. The coils looked to be just random sized, so we mixed and competitive the sizes (pic 2)

5. Glue them into place from the chest to the shoulder blades (exposure 3 + 4)

Step 13: Biceps

1. For the Biceps, we took chevron of EVA foam and in essence made an ovoid. (pic 1 +2)

2. Guyver has another layer on his bicep so i used the masking tape method to get over my guide. (pic 3)

3. We transferred that template to EVA foam. As you can view by the film, the heart and soul of that additional layer needs to be puffed out. We used a soldering iron out to heat in a furrow. Then we old my estrus gun to put out the center. We used hot glue to fill in the grooves (picture show 4)

4. We pasted in a rounded boarder, similar to the shin bone pieces (pic 5).

5. At that place was also a little backtalk that we created that went at the tip of the bicep. We made this soh that the biceps gave an fancy that they connected to the shoulders (ensure pic 5 for details)

Step 14: Neck Details

Once we patterned out the vest, It was decided that they neck piece had additional parts thereto.

1. We created additive layers with various thicknesses of EVA foam.

2. The center adams apple piece was a thin piece of EVA. (pic 1)

3. The sides were thin pieces that were sanded down.(pic 2)

3. The vest actually sandwiched in between the 2 layers of the neck objet d'art (exposure 3)

4. The piece in the nape of the neck opening is a thick while of EVA foam. The hole in back piece of the make out was filled with a layer of see-through EVA foam. I beveled the buttocks margin of the back small-arm to make it flow better into the suit(picture show 4)

5. There was a second zipper that was in the seam of the outer neck opening piece. (moving-picture show 4)

Step 15: Thighs

The Guyver's thighs are quite rum shaped in the sense that they are very high in the informed area.

1. I deliberate the space 'tween my friend's articulatio coxae and the bottom of his articulatio genus (just higher up where the shin sits). Then i measured the perimeter of his thigh.

2. We transferred the mensuration onto paper and drew out my design (pic 1)

3. We cut knocked out the design, including the bout drop shape around the hip joint. We also cut groves to indicate where Guyver had some muscle indentation. (pic 2)

4. We used the tear up shake off paper template to unsexed out a slightly larger Charge drop shape from foam. We successful it slimly larger to compensate for shrinking when we ovaled the pieces. (pic 3)

5. We wrapped the leg piece around itself like a burrito and glued it in situ. Then we glued in the bust pretermit shapes into the side. I also added a rounded boarded where IT was needed. (pic 4

6. Once we knew the spacing 'tween the second joint and the shin, we were able to make the knee pads. They're sporty a prolate shape from thick EVA foam that was doomed with the habit of a bowl.

Step 16: Forearms

The forearms are miniature versions of the shin pieces.

1. Measure the length and take up out your templet on paper. (pic 1)

2. Transer to EVA effervesce (pic 2)

3. Cut out, including the tear sink shapes from either side. use your bonding iron to heat in a groove along the inner lateral. (moving-picture show 3)

4, Glue sides unitedly and gum in a rounded boarder (moving-picture show 4 +5)

Step 17: Forearm Blades

1. Get out out your blades to the size you need (pic 1)

2. Track them out of EVA foam and carefully start sanding the angles in with a belt smoother (pic 2)

3. To give them about sense or rigidity, we used a wire from a coat hanger and skewered them inside each section. So that means 3 wires per steel. This was a baffling thing to do and sometimes i would pigeon berry through the blade, but tactile property your way through. If you mess up, you can seal any modest flaws/ holes with caulk later.

4. We weakened a infinitesimal rectangle into each gauntlet and victimised contact remember to glue it in.

5. We created a small rectangle frame from EVA foam to anchor the blades in with middleman cement. (pic 3 + 4)

6. Your blades should be finished (pic 5)

Tread 18: Hands

1. Wrap your uncastrated hand and fingers in masking paper (pic 1)

2. Draw your template directly along your hand. We alike to number these pieces since there are so galore (pic 2)

3. Carefully cut for each one masking tapeline piece prohibited and transfer to paper (flic 3)

4. Change to EVA foam. Wake and bend into the right shape. Set all pieces aside (I don't have a picture show of all the individual pieces bare, but the glove will look like pic 4)

Step 19: Shoulders

1. The shoulders are not too difficult. It's basically 3 pieces that are shaped like "boats". The bigger the boat, the bigger the berm (pic 1)

2. Paste all ternary pieces together. (pic 2)

3. Cut the pointed end off (pic 3)

4. Take the pointed end that you just cut off and glue it underneath to create a sub layer (moving-picture show 4)

5. Glue in a pyknic lodger (pic 5 + 6)

Step 20: Helmet (part 1)

1. I secondhand my templates from a previous mask. The book of instructions on how to get to stop one are within my strange tutorial Hera. Basically i have a paper template. Every last you have to do is just draw it out and do some trial and error.

2. One you have your pieces (film 1), past glue them entirely together. Use your wake gun to help create that rounded helmet shape. The helmet should personify nice and form fitting.

3. Using mag tape, i covered one half of the helmet. This is because your helmet should be bilaterally symmetric, indeed anything you puff connected one side, will admit you to lie with to the strange. (pic 2)

4. Draw your design directly onto the tape measure (flic 3 + 4)

4. Instantly you carefully cut away the tape and use the space to draw the design onto your helmet on both sides (pic 5). Father't throw that tape template away because you testament need some of those pieces.

5. Use your templates to enlarge the eye sockets and beginning adding on layers. I started with the long-wooled back pieces and the checks (pic 6)

6. You are going to start adding layers to the face to glue them in various places. Remember that the mask is symmetrical. I also used the soldering iron and dremel to create grooves . Look to the picture for detailed specifics (pic 7)

7. i cut the heart and soul hole for the orb that was already pre painted. I glued that in berth. Bet to the picture for more detailed specifics (pic 8)

8. Arsenic i knew there was releas to be a screening over the orb, i had to add in my texture in real time. I used the paste gun to glue in thing streaks of glue. I used an air duster to quickly sang-froid the white gum (if you hold the duster upper side consume, it shoots out COLD transmit).

9. Make over your crown covering (pic 9)

Step 21: Helmet: Antenna and Top of Psyche (part 2)

Antenna

1. Now that you have the base of the helmet, figure out how long you want the antenna to be.

2. To create some rigidity in the antenna, i utilized a dress hanger wire and inserted it in the center of a thick EVA foam striptease. I soldered a grove down the center, curve the wire, and glued the wire in situ. (moving-picture show 1)

3. I then used another strip of EVA foam to enclose the wire (pic 2)

4. Then i creature the strip to the belt sander to get the main shape correct (pic 3)

5. i used the dremel to carve in groves happening both sides the whole way to the floor of the antenna. I then took two pieces of lanky EVA foam and created cardinal triangle layers to sit at the arse. Spirit at picture for more specific details (pic 4 + 5)

6. I created two holes on either lateral of the skull area to glue in the other two orbs. I used the dremel to create th ripples around each ball. (pic 4 + 5)

7. I victimised on many flat later of EVA foam to make up the top layer that awninged the summit and roughly the skull. Look at picture for more specific details (pic 6)

8. I poked holes through the cheek pieces for breathing.. also remember to cut away the little ball field region at the lowly of the antenna. This throne be glued in ulterior after painting. (pic 7)

9. apply your dremel and soldering iron to create many of an organic look. (pic 8 + 9)

Step 22: Texture: Webbing, Organic fertiliser, and Grooves

Webbing

1. In the guyer suit, he has this webbing in versatile parts. To reach this, we applied thin streaks of illegal glue to those areas. A presently as we laid down a line, we would use an inverted beam dustcloth can to quickly aplomb and harden the hot gum. Recollect to aspect at reference pictures to see which means the webbing is sitting. Sometimes it's in swirls, sometimes in integration, or horizontal. It seemed like the more webs the better. (pics 1-8 show good examples).

Organic

2. Because we yearned-for the suit to have more than of an essential tone thereto, a dremel with a pyknic bit was used happening All piece of the suit.. shoes, shins, fingers, helmet, pelvis... EVERYTHING!!! (pics 9-10 establish good examples)

Deep Grooves

3. We wanted a some deeper grooves within the befit so i took the soldering iron and heated or s lines inside sporadic muscae volitantes of ALL the pieces - fingers, pelvic arch, helmet, etc. Try thinking of a tree or whitening convention. However, you put on't wish too galore branches coming from the lines (pic 11-13 show peachy examples)

The remainder of the pictures show you what the whole suit looks like when IT is completely textured.

Ill-trea 23: Eye Lenses

1. I created the lenses in front the suit was painted, but I DID NOT paste them in until the suit was completely painted and dry

2. Create you paper template and grab your shining plastic. You can use plexiglass, pastry containers, etc.. (pic 1)

3. Draw and cut out the plastic eye piece (pic 2)

4. I had some pink and purple sharpies so i was experimenting with coloring them in. (pic 3 +4)

5. I was able o get a pink/ purple lens where you can have moderationist visibility. You will NOT be able to see anything accurately, but information technology should glucinium sufficient for you to not jar against things (picture show 5-7)

OPTIONAL

1. Some other idea to strain is looking into purchasing translucent pink/ purple window tint. It might work with being able to see many clearly

2. If you have the means and the know-how, you can install LED lights into the eyes. (pic 8-10)

Step 24: Caulking, Waterproofing, and Painting

Caulk

1. Using your DAP clear calk, you want to caulk any throwaway grooves or seams. This will move over it a more organic feel so that it will be ambitious to see that a opus was made up of miscellaneous foam parts. Basically, If two pieces of foam are touching somehow, put caulk on that seam.

Sealing

2. I commend victimization Formative dip for this build. It seals the foam and allows it to be painted. if you don't seal the foam prior to painting, your paint might get besides absorbed into the effervesce. essentially what you are nerve-wracking to do is create a non permeable layer to paint on. Spray and allow to semi-dry (pic 1-4)

Painting

3. We painted several layers and washes of diverse colors for the guyer suit. You can chose how you want to paint it. in the pic, the suit is a dismal amobarbital sodium.. in the Zanzibar copal, IT's almost a pistachio green. We went for a darker teal superficial color with some accent colors.

4. We first started with painting the base a bright sky blue. Recollect to tape off anything you come not want to paint (ie. those silver orbs connected the helmet, on the chest, the lights, zippers, buckles etc). (pic 5-7)

5. Then we used a aglow purpleness for those really heavy grooves (pic 8)

6. Then we did a really real watery wash of this dark greenish color, so that the pieces were not soh vibrant. we did not deficiency him to be super shiny and pristine looking (9-13)

7. On the black areas of the causa, we used a regular inglorious. However, we lightened the black along the webbing to give it little bit of a contrast

8. Lastly, i in use around negroid airbrush paint and pip whatsoever of the areas to add any shadows. you can project this in the tear-drop shapes about the hips and forearms, the quads, and around the boarders.

9. Seal all pieces with a clear coat.

10. Remove altogether covering tape

Step 25: Assembly and Processed

Meeting place

1. Remember to glue in the heart lenses

2. Glue in the final beads. You can use some sparkle to fill in any bead holes if needed. There are two beads that carry on the sides of antenna, one that goes at the baseborn of the antenna, and two on the cheeks, and 2 on the mouth

3. The tubes connected the helmet should be able to represent inserted into holes happening the infield that is on the vest. You dismiss use a dremel to create the holes or even a soldering branding iron. Do non make the hole also big Oregon the tubes may fall away out when you work your psyche. Also, make a point the head tubes are long plenty that they don't pop dead when you turn your head.

4. I use elastic straps to attach the shoulders to the enthrone.. (pic 1). I as wel utilization elastic to attach the biceps to the shoulders

5. if i remember correctly, the hips were healthy to stay up happening their own.

6. i used elastic to sequester the knee to the top of the shin man. Then i old other slip of fictile with a buckle to unafraid the knee pad around my friend's effective knee.

7. If your lenses fog up due to heat, They make a spray dead thither to foreclose that. I bought some online to facilitate with my suits.

FINISHED!!

Special thanks to my married woman, and my friends Dan and Sabrina for all their hard bring in helping create this suit. It was much a hit and i'm excited to see it in action once more next year.

Also special thanks to the amazing photographers to make this suit look tops. Delight look into Noah Metalworker Photography, Dettman Photography, and Eternity Spiral Picture taking

More geeky goodness, artsy projects, and current projects can beryllium found on my FB site, tumblr, Youtube, and Instagram. Thanks!

Other costumes faced in that instructable:

Wolverine: Future day before long

Cyclops

Gears of War Armor

Torque Bow

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